Pisa: in the footsteps of Galileo Galilei.

by Admin 22 settembre 2009 11.28

Born and raised in Pisa, Galileo Galilei may be the guideline for visiting this Tuscan city, retracing the steps of the great scientist. 

It was in mid February, 1564 when Galileo was born, son of Giulia degli Ammannati, tradesmen in the wood and construction industry, and Vincenzo, musician and music theorist, in the District of St. Andrew, just a few steps from the church of the same name and today the area of the austere Palace of Justice. 

Opposite and on one side of the Palace is a small square, very characteristic of the area, dedicated to St. Luke and with a well in the center.  This is an excellent starting point for a walking tour of the city, as seen through the eyes of the scientist.  We are close to the Arno, just a few steps from the most important public theater, the Verdi Theater. 

From here we can walk towards the river, following it until we reach the Piazza de Chavoli, today's Piazza Cairoli or della Berlina.  In the past, this was the central point of a vast area that extended to the Ammannati, or Galilei’s home.  Bordered on the north by the Church of St. Pierino and on the west by a portico crowned by the Medici coat of arms, the square was dominated by the statue of Abbondanza (the work of Pierino da Vinci), a reminder of the area's function as a market. 

The market held here must have been a particular delight for the very young Galilei, with its noisy bargaining, the sway of the wagons, the river furrowed by boats loaded with goods, its quay equipped with hooks, rollers, pulleys and other equipment.  Today nothing of the market remains, and although the existing Roncioni slipways on the other side of the river may just provide a glimpse of the landing bringing people from the river to the market, the square remains heavily populated and lively, with a  good selection of places to enjoy a beer or a drink on next to the Arno. 

From the square you can also see the Ponte di Mezzo lower than the original three arches medieval structure. Once framed by a row of buildings, today these have been replaced by two squares; however the bridge remains  most important as it crosses the city, dividing the Corso Italia from Borgo Stretto and separating the area of Tramontana (to the right of the river if you look towards the sea) from Mezzogiorno.  Continuing on our tour we arrive at the statue of Garibaldi, the name given to the square where the people from Pisa and "foreigners" meet. 

On the other side of the bridge are the Seventeenth Century Logge di Banchi.  However, following the footsteps of Galilei, instead of crossing the river we follow the flow of students towards Sapienza.   Palazzo della Sapienza, site of the University with its characteristic courtyard with a double gallery, remains practically intact.  Galileo spent his youth and maturity in Palazzo della Sapienza.  It is here that the scientist lived as a student and a teacher, spending his lucky as well as his unfortunate days in Pisa, due in large part to his rejection of the Biblical injunction that "Fear of God is the beginning of all wisdom", which today is still found at the entry of the center of learning and which was so often used by competitors to limit the scientist's research.

Box:
Reaching Pisa is simple, especially by air.  In fact, to stay within the subject, the public airport, named the Airport Galileo Galilei, offers several low cost airlines and is among the busiest in Tuscany.  For more information, visit the website www.pisa-airport.com.  To reach Pisa by car from Florence, use the Firenze-Pisa-Livorno Highway, or the A11 Firenze-Mare.  Exit at Pisa Nord and then take the Aurelia south to Pisa (approximately 6 km.).  From Rome or Bologna, once at Florence take the A1 and then the A11.  From Genoa or Rosignano, the A12 Genova-Rosignano is the best option, exiting at Pisa Nord or Pisa Centro. 
The city on the banks of the Arno is also well connected by train; from Florence to Pisa’s main station is only one hour by train.  For more information, call Center Trenitalia or  www.trenitalia.com.


For information on Galileo Galilei, you can find the Pisa itinerary at  http://galileo.rice.edu/ , website of the Galileo Project; or visit Wikipedia, the internet research site par excellence.

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Montecatini Terme: the barycentre of Tuscany

by Admin 24 luglio 2009 17.31
Montecatini, centrally situated between Tuscany’s main historical cities played until the XIV century the balance in the fight for dominium in the region.  After Lucca and Pisa, even the distant Siena sought to conquer it in 1554 in an attempt to weaken Florentine power.  

During the intervening periods of its history, this barycentre was, however, crushed through pride of those in power at that time: feeling himself betrayed, Cosimo dei Medici ordered, in fact, that it be “reduced to rubble” and so it was; eight hundred soldiers relentlessly tore down walls, towers and houses for days on end.  Only one hundred and sixty houses were saved together with three convents, two palaces and a few towers; of the ancient wall only painting testimony remains. 

This occurred in the ancient fortified hamlet, Montecatini Alto, situated 290 metres above sea level, whilst the main part of the city, Montecatini Terme, was developed in the valley, on and around its main source of wealth: the thermal waters. 

The curative properties of the waters were already known as far back in Ancient Romans times and already in 1417 Ugolino Simoni laid down the basis of medical hydrology with the treaty “De Balneorum Italiae proprietatibus”. In the first half of the 17th century the Granduke Leopold of Tuscany began the imposing work to channel water and construct thermal buildings which have contributed immensely to the development of the city.

With the passing of the centuries Montecatini continues to arouse interest in the many opportunities which it has to offer: archaeological finds and historical testimony, mediaeval churches, ancient towers and cultural, out in the open art walks such as the works in Liberty style by Galileo Chini. 
It is also an ideal place for relaxation: visitors are welcomed to any of the 9 spa buildings, set in 46 hectare of parkland, for hydroponic treatment, mud baths, balneotherapy and inhalations for their own personal wellbeing, and the prevention and treatment of various pathologies.

Focus: The Funicular
Two small cable cars which appear to have stepped out of a Western link Montecatini Terme with Montecatini Alto.
Ten minutes to cover one kilometre with a rise of 200 metres and an average ascent at 20% arriving at almost 40% on the final tract.  
Built in 1898, Montecatini’s Funicular is the oldest in Europe and has been driven on steam since 1921.  Damaged during  World War  II it was returned to service in 1949.  From 1977 to 1982 the plant has been brought up to norm through enormous renovation works which have not altered the fascination of the historical little red cable cars which never fail to “salute” halfway along the track.
Each cable car can hold 40 people and comprises of one cabin only divided into three sections, with wooden benches and two tiny external balconies – the most requested -, from which one can admire the unique panorama. 

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Arezzo: A journey covering 30 centuries of history

by Admin 24 luglio 2009 16.02
One of the oldest cities in Tuscany; an ‘open air’ museum rich in historical, cultural and artistic testimony. Dating back to the prehistoric era, Arezzo rapidly developed due to its strategic, confluence position with Valdarno, Valdichiana and Casentino. 

An Etruscan city from the 9th century B.C., then a Roman colony and later declared  a free commune in the XI century, the city prospered until the defeat of Campaldino, in 1289, when it passed under Florentine control. 
Arezzo has always been an important commercial centre with a flourishing artisan tradition of goldsmiths, ceramics, furniture, etc.  Visitors to the city do so on foot exploring in all tranquillity the hidden splendours.  From a nearby car park using the mobile staircase one arrives at the Cathedral where it is possible to admire the fresco of Maddalena by Piero della Francesca and the Marcillat stained glass polychrome.

Then it’s a short walk  to the Church of San Domenico with its Crucifix by Cimabue, and then on to the home of Giorgio Vasari, which is completely frescoed, and the Mediaeval and Modern Art Museum with paintings from the XIII and XIV centuries.
Close by, is the Church of SS. Flora and Lucilla with its false dome – a very effective trompe l’oeil – and the church of San Francesco rich in works of art.

Walking slowly and calmly along, to feel the magic emanating from particulars: the courtyards belonging to ancient palaces, the main gates and wrought iron urban fittings, the Medici Fortress a privileged ‘terrace’ overlooking the city and surrounding hills, and the  Palazzo of the  Pretorio, with coats of arms covering its facade.  The Vasari Loggia characterizes the Piazza Grande, where, on the first Sunday of the month, the oldest Antique Fair in Italy is held and also, twice a year, where the spectacular historical commemoration of the Giostra del Saracino ‘the Saracen Joust’ takes place.

Our itinerary finishes at the Pieve of Santa Maria, a Roman masterpiece characterized by an infinite number of small columns, and a stone bell tower about 60 metres high.  
By now it is lunchtime and we come across one of the many Trattorie where it is possible to taste, in a homely atmosphere, the typical dishes accompanied by a selection of wines chosen by those who know what it’s all about! 

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