Tiburzi: the legend of the famous bandit from Maremma

by Admin 3 novembre 2009 15.45
The brave strong lion is dead.
The famous king of Lamone is dead and the lifeless body scares. In the pale bearded and noble face you could see the Knight, could see that bandit had a noble, civil aspect.
Also a poem – by an anonymous – celebrates the epic deeds of Domenico Tiburzi, controversial figure of the Maremma banditry world of the 19th century.

After more than a century, still today, there are those who condemn him without appeal as a cruel bandit who had been guilty of about 20 homicides and those who mythicise him as defender of the destitute, making him a romantic hero who stole the rich to give the poor.

Anyhow, the adventurous life of Tiburzi ended the night of the 23rd October 1896 when the Carabinieri set a trap for him at Forane, in the country house of the Franci family (to whom he had asked hospitality) where he sheltered with his inseparable companion Fioravanti. We know for sure from the chronicles Tiburzi was hit on a leg during a shooting; it’s not clear what happened after. According to another version the “King of Lamone” killed himself, preferring to die rather than fall into the law clutches.

However, if his last minutes are shrouded in mystery, even more mysterious, almost legendary, is the matter related to his burial. Over hundred years of researches, investigations and inquiries have not been enough to throw some daylight on what really happened that fall night.

According to the most reliable, but also the most fanciful, version, the priest of Capalbio refused to officiate a standard funeral service and burial in the graveyard for that man considered a criminal, a sinner, a godless person.

However the priest had to reckon with the will of the whole community which, on the contrary, demanded a honoured burial in hallowed ground for the “paladin of the rights of the weak”: the body of Domenico Tiburzi could be buried in hollowed ground but … just for a half!

The other half should be outside the cemetery! And so it was. The grave was dug at the gate of the cemetery with the legs inside and the head, the chest – that is the soul – outside. But neither cross nor tombstone, complete oblivion.
Today everything is shrouded in mystery, because, in the meantime, the cemetery of Capalbio has become bigger, and we don’t know where the old gate was, the only reference point of his burial.
And so Domenico Tiburzi, the “King of bandits”, the mythic bandit from Maremma, lays shrouded in his legendary halo.

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Curiosity & Legend

Straw hats, the history of a piece of Florence

by Admin 22 settembre 2009 11.33
An old tradition turned into a spectacle, a film and an opera. The straw hats created in Florence are famous all around the world.

They became famous in the 19th century when the gentlewomen used to wear the head coverings created by the able hands of the “trecciaiole”, groups of simple women who wove the wheat hay sat in front of the doors of their houses.

An elegant and popular habit was then born at the same time, which inspired the French comedy in five acts “Un chapeau de paille d’Italie” in 1851, written by Eugene Labiche. At the start of the 20th century, where the hat was still regarded as an essential female accessory, the comedy’s story was borrowed to make a film and an opera by Nino Rota in 1945. The immediate success of the opera also sanctioned the decline of the straw headgear, which was then forgotten from the 1950s onwards.

The accessory, which then seemed to have been abandoned, has been returning to the spotlight in the last few years, achieving massive success among young people and old. There are many workshops in the centre which are creating straw hats in perfect Florentine style, almost like little sculptures.

There are also people who let their creativity run wild and who are creating new, extrovert and original models, not only in straw, but also in felt and grid-worked. These are often one-off pieces for real connoisseurs. To tackle the summer heat or for the pleasure of having worn a piece of the history of Florence handicrafts.  

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Made in Tuscany

Pisa: in the footsteps of Galileo Galilei.

by Admin 22 settembre 2009 11.28

Born and raised in Pisa, Galileo Galilei may be the guideline for visiting this Tuscan city, retracing the steps of the great scientist. 

It was in mid February, 1564 when Galileo was born, son of Giulia degli Ammannati, tradesmen in the wood and construction industry, and Vincenzo, musician and music theorist, in the District of St. Andrew, just a few steps from the church of the same name and today the area of the austere Palace of Justice. 

Opposite and on one side of the Palace is a small square, very characteristic of the area, dedicated to St. Luke and with a well in the center.  This is an excellent starting point for a walking tour of the city, as seen through the eyes of the scientist.  We are close to the Arno, just a few steps from the most important public theater, the Verdi Theater. 

From here we can walk towards the river, following it until we reach the Piazza de Chavoli, today's Piazza Cairoli or della Berlina.  In the past, this was the central point of a vast area that extended to the Ammannati, or Galilei’s home.  Bordered on the north by the Church of St. Pierino and on the west by a portico crowned by the Medici coat of arms, the square was dominated by the statue of Abbondanza (the work of Pierino da Vinci), a reminder of the area's function as a market. 

The market held here must have been a particular delight for the very young Galilei, with its noisy bargaining, the sway of the wagons, the river furrowed by boats loaded with goods, its quay equipped with hooks, rollers, pulleys and other equipment.  Today nothing of the market remains, and although the existing Roncioni slipways on the other side of the river may just provide a glimpse of the landing bringing people from the river to the market, the square remains heavily populated and lively, with a  good selection of places to enjoy a beer or a drink on next to the Arno. 

From the square you can also see the Ponte di Mezzo lower than the original three arches medieval structure. Once framed by a row of buildings, today these have been replaced by two squares; however the bridge remains  most important as it crosses the city, dividing the Corso Italia from Borgo Stretto and separating the area of Tramontana (to the right of the river if you look towards the sea) from Mezzogiorno.  Continuing on our tour we arrive at the statue of Garibaldi, the name given to the square where the people from Pisa and "foreigners" meet. 

On the other side of the bridge are the Seventeenth Century Logge di Banchi.  However, following the footsteps of Galilei, instead of crossing the river we follow the flow of students towards Sapienza.   Palazzo della Sapienza, site of the University with its characteristic courtyard with a double gallery, remains practically intact.  Galileo spent his youth and maturity in Palazzo della Sapienza.  It is here that the scientist lived as a student and a teacher, spending his lucky as well as his unfortunate days in Pisa, due in large part to his rejection of the Biblical injunction that "Fear of God is the beginning of all wisdom", which today is still found at the entry of the center of learning and which was so often used by competitors to limit the scientist's research.

Box:
Reaching Pisa is simple, especially by air.  In fact, to stay within the subject, the public airport, named the Airport Galileo Galilei, offers several low cost airlines and is among the busiest in Tuscany.  For more information, visit the website www.pisa-airport.com.  To reach Pisa by car from Florence, use the Firenze-Pisa-Livorno Highway, or the A11 Firenze-Mare.  Exit at Pisa Nord and then take the Aurelia south to Pisa (approximately 6 km.).  From Rome or Bologna, once at Florence take the A1 and then the A11.  From Genoa or Rosignano, the A12 Genova-Rosignano is the best option, exiting at Pisa Nord or Pisa Centro. 
The city on the banks of the Arno is also well connected by train; from Florence to Pisa’s main station is only one hour by train.  For more information, call Center Trenitalia or  www.trenitalia.com.


For information on Galileo Galilei, you can find the Pisa itinerary at  http://galileo.rice.edu/ , website of the Galileo Project; or visit Wikipedia, the internet research site par excellence.

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City focus

The wine designer

by Admin 24 luglio 2009 17.56
It is difficult to define the craft of this genuine Florentine with precision: a woman with great charisma, a charming and stylish person who specialises in a profession that she herself invented. Simonetta Doni is a wine designer, well she is actually the wine designer! A clearly famous designer who is specialised in the creation of wine labels.

A successful career dedicated to the image management of wine through its dressing. A creative who has acquired the secrets of communication and wine marketing through experience combined with timeless taste. A woman who dresses the bottle, praising it with the label.

“The success of a wine depends also on the way in which the label represents it. This is the initial impact on the consumer, an impact that may be decisive for the purchase.”
How can she be wrong in a world where image is everything? An excellent wine without suitable dressing loses its appeal.

Simonetta Doni has made an impression in just a few years with her grace, intuition and feminine creativity in a traditionally male world such as that of wine. Today she is the owner of "Doni & Associati", one of the very few studios specialised in the image of wine companies in the world. Her clients include some of the most important companies internationally, but also young innovative and emerging companies.

How did you come up with the idea of creating wine labels?

For my first labels a few years ago, I had certainly created beautiful images, but perhaps without fully understanding the value of communication and sales. A little later on, an enlightened producer asked me to invent a series of concepts that he intended to communicate: the smell of the earth, the seduction of the wine, the happiness that it could have given to those who drank it, its history, the work behind it, etc. I became aware of the value that a simple piece of paper could have. The challenge of achieving the goals was the springboard that made me concentrate on this form of communication for the passionate and all-involving world of wine.

Were your first approaches with this world very masculine?


In reality, dealing with a world that is mainly made up of men was a positive thing. I believe that female sensitivity brought added value to it. The comparison was always stimulating and constructive. Seeing things from a sometimes opposite point of view makes one find new and interesting solutions. There are now many of us who work and create fantastic projects in this world.

Where were you aware of having made it?

After the first label, which I call “aware”, other producers came to me and told me that they had seen that label. Therefore they asked to be study the image also for their products.

Which is the most difficult client?

There isn’t one in particular, but let’s say that the most demanding clients are those which make us always find new solutions with their countless requests and make us define even the tiniest detail in an almost maniacal way, which make the difference when all put together.

How difficult was it to make the image of wine labels more contemporary?

Once upon a time, the image was created only to say what was contained in that particular bottle and if something was depicted on it, this was often done by someone in the family who dabbled in painting or drawing who “created” the image. They weren’t concerned with communicating all the series of elements that are now vital and implementing the knowledge that we have now gained today. We always propose an innovative hypothesis among the possible alternatives, but certain companies still aren’t completely ready for these solutions. In reality, the large international competition will soon make us explore new paths, without losing the sense of history, where we will be able to also communicate using innovative and contemporary languages.

Info:
Studio Doni & Associati
Via Guelfa, 85 – 50129 Florence 
Tel. 055 26 80 23 – Fax 055 26 79 772
info@donieassociati.it - www.donieassociati.it

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Food & Wine | People & Lovers

Cafè La Gare

by Admin 24 luglio 2009 17.50
Table abat-jour, green quilted sofas, the dark wood of majestic counters and tables. Essential elegance and a polished atmosphere.

If it wasn’t for the fact that the large shop windows do not reflect the unmistakeable outline of the Eiffel Tower, you might initially think that you were in Paris, but you’re actually at Montevarchi, in the heart of the Valdarno, home of the famous old masters.


The initial visual impact is satisfying in itself, but your palate will be even more satisfied by the house specialities. 
A passion for cookery, a love for the work, there is a selection of high-quality niche products offered at normal prices.

These are the ingredients of this bistro, which was initially created as an American Bar and then transformed over time into a place to enjoy a refined aperitif with an excellent choice of dispensed wines. After a year or so, it was then turned into an excellent wine shop and bar.


The well-stocked wine shop (approximately 800 labels) triumphantly boasts its parade of bottles from the best national producers covering an entire wall of the building – with the exception of His majesty Champagne – with an advantage for the tradition, fishing in the cellars of small national producers.


After all, the patron of Cafè La Gare, Paolo Giannetti, is an expert in the field. Among other things, he recommends the wine lists for many restaurants and the cellars of many companies in the area. 
Good wine is one step away from catering. An excellent glass of wine is after all the best companion to a delicious morsel. That’s why La Gare is also an excellent wine bar.

Sat on soft, comfortable sofas, you can choose from a constantly changing menu, which varies from season to season, always offering fresh products with consideration given to the best local products, but also nationally and from overseas.

Starters, pasta and rice dishes, carpaccio, cured meats, cheeses and desserts: these are the ideal companions to a good glass of wine that Paolo will propose to you. 
But that’s not all. Being in an atmosphere where people with refined palates are welcomed, they are also celebrated with themed evenings organised directly by the wine bar or in partnership with Valdarno Slow Food with a monthly calendar. If you want more, you can even organise a special dinner for your important occasions.

Dinners that all have wine lists, but above all also with wine lists by the glass. A rarity.
To emphasise that we always want to offer you the very best, regular customers to Cafè La Gare know that the bar also stocks excellent Belgian and homemade Italian beer and organises themed evenings to also taste this blond and increasingly popular drink.


Our opening times are flexible: there is a quick lunch from midday to 14:30; aperitif from 18:00 to 21:00 and dinner is held from 20:00 to midnight.

Obviously English is spoken here and foreign guests who love learning about our culture, starting with food and wine, are welcome. We greatly value these guests. This is why we recommend this place. Who said that quality and the places worth visiting are only those celebrated in guide books or those found in cities? Discovering and experience these places is a surprise and not only for your palate.


Info:

Via Puccini 2/4 – Montevarchi (Ar)
Tel. 055 980286


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Restaurant

Narciso Parigi, Florentine pride

by Admin 24 luglio 2009 17.41
“Garrisca al vento il labaro viola…”. "the violet banner fluttering in the wind…" Who does not know the famous first line of the Fiorentina theme song by Narciso Parigi, which has been a loyal companion encouraging the actions of the Fleur-de-lis team since the 1950s, through the good and the bad times? 

He began his career at the age of 16 at Campi Bisenzio (where he was born on 29th November, 1927, singing on Radio Firenze and straight from there was taken to Rome by the RAI. A career which very soon passed to the other side of the ocean. 

Over his long career he has cut 5.500 titles and sold tens of millions of records.  Parigi has also starred In 17 films (he played in the The Graduates (1995) by Leonardo Pieraccioni, where he played the part of Berto or, in 1959 the realisation of the film Assi della Ribalta together with Ferdinando Baldi and was also ambassador of the Fiorentina song ("Un bacione a Firenze" to give just one example) in the United States and the rest of the world.  Narciso is a Fiorentina in every respect.  He is his city's emblem and just like its symbol, Parigi is a Fleur-de-Lis who has knowingly opened his petals to the entire world.

And Florence - which was never very magnanimous towards its own Masters from Dante onwards - has this time, and quite rightly so, placed Narciso amongst its artistic emblems and has awarded him a well-deserved title during the presentation of the book "Narciso Parigi, a Tuscan's sense of music and life from another era", which was held in 2006 at the Palazzo Vecchio.  A book with the Idea of celebrating the artistic birthday of this great Florentine artist, one of the few examples of the internationally famous "made in Tuscany", exactly 60 years after cutting his first record "Ho lasciato il mio cuore a Firenze" - I left my heart in Florence - (June 1946).  The book is a 300 page biography, published by Semper, which covers the life of "the voice of Florence in the world" from his beginning.  A book full of news, curiosities and photographs written by the musical critic, Giovanni Ballerini, with a preface by one of the best experts in the field of Italian songs, Paolo Limiti.

But during our telephone conversation, wherein Narciso retraces his early years, it is to his time spent in Campi Bisenzio that he frequently returns to and where he lingers over memories linked to his youth and the second world war…..he tells me of friends lost In the war, of them dying a hero's death, of the pain he has carried within him all his life……melancholy stories, measured, sometimes, by pauses of uncertainty during which, in the background, one hears the voice of his wife Fiorella, (to whom he has been married for 51 years), who reminds Narciso of names he cannot remember; sometimes, cadenced by meaningful silences falling after raw anecdotes, my imagination leads me to see those people, those places and even recreate the smell and noise of bombings. 

The post-war years were hard, but in Narciso's heart can be heard "i bei tempi che furono", (the good times that were),  the time of "….that Florence described in my songs….. Mattinata fiorentina, Firenze sogna…..", "i tempi di una Firenze sana….", Florentine morning….., Florence dreaming…., the times when Florence was good….   
In truth, Narciso Parigi is "a Tuscan from another time", but nevertheless a reality to be proud of.  For yesterday, today, tomorrow.  

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People & Lovers

The Pistoia Mountains: not just for skiing

by Admin 24 luglio 2009 17.36
On a trip to the Pistoia Mountains, from Marliana to Cutigliano, from Piteglio to Sambuca Pistoiese, from San Marcello to Abetone, including Pescia, Montale and Pistoia, you will discover that these towns are not only home to the best-known ski centres in Tuscany, but also boast many other beautiful sights and unmissable celebrations.

The new Ecomuseum of the Pistoiese Mountains, an innovative centre which co-ordinates all the territory's cultural and natural treasures, has a list of six outdoor trails which allow the visitor to discover a variety of fascinating and unique sights, from the summit of the Alpe Tre Potenze, nearly 6,500 feet high, to the eastern slopes of the Monte La Croce.

On the Ice Trail, for example, we discover the ingenious system used to produce natural ice in the Reno Valley between the 18th and 20th centuries, whereas the Iron Trail reveals how the Pistoia Mountains were the most important centre of iron and steel production in the Grand Duchy of Tuscany in the 16th century. In the parish church of Popiglio in the municipality of Piteglio, the Diocesan Museum of Religious Art has a collection of rare Baroque artefacts, and visitors to the Orsigna valley can explore the renovated Giamba Coal Museum and the old Coal Route.

The stunning Nature Trail gives the visitor the opportunity to collect a few blueberries or porcini mushrooms, which are both plentiful in this region. The Trail also takes in the Woodland Botanical Garden of the Abetone, abundant in Norway Spruce, once known as the Grand Duchy Forests of Boscolungo. Here, with a bit of luck, you might see a kestrel, a buzzard, an eagle or even a wolf.

If you happen to be in San Marcello Pistoiese on 8th September, you have the chance to attend a unique ceremony. Ever since the feast of the town's patron saint, Saint Celestina, has been celebrated on that date, it has been accompanied by the launch of a hot-air balloon, a tradition dating back to 1783, when the Montgolfier brothers, who were staying in the region, encouraged local residents to attempt the feat of flying in a balloon. It is said that if the balloon does not rise beyond the bell-tower, the year will be an unlucky one, whereas a fortunate year is in stow if the balloon is seen soaring over the tower. 

Montecatini Terme: the barycentre of Tuscany

by Admin 24 luglio 2009 17.31
Montecatini, centrally situated between Tuscany’s main historical cities played until the XIV century the balance in the fight for dominium in the region.  After Lucca and Pisa, even the distant Siena sought to conquer it in 1554 in an attempt to weaken Florentine power.  

During the intervening periods of its history, this barycentre was, however, crushed through pride of those in power at that time: feeling himself betrayed, Cosimo dei Medici ordered, in fact, that it be “reduced to rubble” and so it was; eight hundred soldiers relentlessly tore down walls, towers and houses for days on end.  Only one hundred and sixty houses were saved together with three convents, two palaces and a few towers; of the ancient wall only painting testimony remains. 

This occurred in the ancient fortified hamlet, Montecatini Alto, situated 290 metres above sea level, whilst the main part of the city, Montecatini Terme, was developed in the valley, on and around its main source of wealth: the thermal waters. 

The curative properties of the waters were already known as far back in Ancient Romans times and already in 1417 Ugolino Simoni laid down the basis of medical hydrology with the treaty “De Balneorum Italiae proprietatibus”. In the first half of the 17th century the Granduke Leopold of Tuscany began the imposing work to channel water and construct thermal buildings which have contributed immensely to the development of the city.

With the passing of the centuries Montecatini continues to arouse interest in the many opportunities which it has to offer: archaeological finds and historical testimony, mediaeval churches, ancient towers and cultural, out in the open art walks such as the works in Liberty style by Galileo Chini. 
It is also an ideal place for relaxation: visitors are welcomed to any of the 9 spa buildings, set in 46 hectare of parkland, for hydroponic treatment, mud baths, balneotherapy and inhalations for their own personal wellbeing, and the prevention and treatment of various pathologies.

Focus: The Funicular
Two small cable cars which appear to have stepped out of a Western link Montecatini Terme with Montecatini Alto.
Ten minutes to cover one kilometre with a rise of 200 metres and an average ascent at 20% arriving at almost 40% on the final tract.  
Built in 1898, Montecatini’s Funicular is the oldest in Europe and has been driven on steam since 1921.  Damaged during  World War  II it was returned to service in 1949.  From 1977 to 1982 the plant has been brought up to norm through enormous renovation works which have not altered the fascination of the historical little red cable cars which never fail to “salute” halfway along the track.
Each cable car can hold 40 people and comprises of one cabin only divided into three sections, with wooden benches and two tiny external balconies – the most requested -, from which one can admire the unique panorama. 

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City focus

Salvadonica in Chianti

by Admin 24 luglio 2009 17.08
We are in the very heart of Classic Chianti. The real and authentic one, the one of the black Gallo luxury, where you can still breathe ancient times rhythm and a lot of serenity.

We are located in Mercatale Val di Pesa, halfway between the two ancient republics of Florence and Siena. Salvadonica is a delightful Borgo, of colonial origin (1400) choose by Baccetti family long time ago as their ‘buen retiro’. They have transformed it into a lovely tourist complex.

Salvadonica is a place kissed by fortune, dipped into green and into the silent sound of Chianti countryside, laid down on one of the most beautiful hills of Chianti.
A challenge won in a big way by Baccetti family, the one of turning the ancient farmers’ rooms into wonderful rooms and apartments, got by using lines and original structures.

It all ends up into something nice and also the apartments – that perfectly match with the terracotta floor and the beam roof - are well-groomed and simple, with a strong attention on details. It gives the guest the authentic taste of country life.

Salvadonica is such a lovely Borgo of third millennium and it has to be enriched with all the necessary for a perfect comfort: from the panoramic pool with Jacuzzi to the tennis field, from billiard room to the bowls one and of other recreational activities that will fill your holiday.

And then, big cities are within a stone’s throw: Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, as more suggestive and famous borgos of Classic Chianti.
And Chianti itself, of course!

So, don’t miss the delicious homemade buffet breakfasts and the products made by the farm: vine, extra vergine oil and more.
Serenity, harmony with the nature, peace with the world and yourself, cuddle in the Chianti green.
Salvadonica offers all of this a more for your unforgettable holiday.

Info:
Via Grevigiana, 82 - 50024 Mercatale Val di Pesa
Tel. 055 8218039 - Fax 055 8218043
www.salvadonica.com - email:  info@salvadonica.com

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Charming

The magic of Mt. Amiata, the "Good Volcano"

by Admin 24 luglio 2009 17.01
In the middle of southern Tuscany towers Mount Amiata, an extinct ancient volcano whose last eruption dates back to about 700 thousand years ago, which still arouses amazement and wonder today for its impressiveness and its magical atmosphere that remains intact in its territory, nature, and traditions that have not been erased by time.

Located between the provinces of Grosseto and Siena, this Tuscan giant watches over one of the green areas of the region formed by the Orcia Valley, the Paglia Valley and the Maremma, the Siena hills and Bolsena Lake. Its seven municipalities, Abbadia San Salvatore, Santa Fiora, Arcidosso, Castel del Piano, Seggiano, Piancastagnaio and Castell'Azzara reflect the spirit of the Amiata, a large open natural park. 

Besides being one of the most important skiing areas in Tuscany, the Amiata also has three notable spa centres at Bagni San Filippo, San Casciano e Bagno Vignoni.
At Bagni San Filippo, water flows from the earth at 52 degrees and forms incredible sulphuric waterfalls in strangely opalescent colours like the "White Wall" made snow-white by the high concentration of limestone and the famous "White Water Moat", a stream in which fresh water mixes spontaneously with the hot spring water, Interspersed with Romanesque-Lombard monasteries, Renaissance and Baroque churches and medieval buildings, the Amiata territory over the centuries has maintained a strong balance between the population and the volcano's widespread flora and fauna that is protected in many areas. 

From the Monte Labro Game Reserve where there are still some surviving examples of the Appennine Wolf, it leads to the WWF Bosco Rocconi Natural Reserve with its characteristic pit and caves, and then on up to the Mount Penna Reserve that occupies over a thousand hectares.
Here many go off on trekking excursions seeking subterranean phenomena, caverns and immense forests of beech and maple, or simply to gather mushrooms and chestnuts, two typical foods in the Amiata diet which have many festivals dedicated to them throughout the year. 

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Suggestions and itineraries to discover art, people, cities, small villages, food, and wine that make Tuscany unique in the world.